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Photographer’s Note

Just 123 km from Jhansi and 23 km from the district headquarters of Lalitpur, lies Deogarh, the Fort of the Gods, situated on the right bank of the Betwa river at the western end of the Lalitpur range of hills.

A path has been cleared through the undergrowth, and broken statues and artefacts lie scattered about. Within the fort is a remarkable group of 31 Jain Temples. During the 6th to 17th centuries, Deogarh was a Jain center and still houses these Jain temples.
Nothing that we had been told had quite prepared us for what we now saw. Sculptures lay everywhere: in the grass and bushes on both sides of the path leading to the gate in the wall of the fort; in the 31 Jain temples inside the fort, the enshrined Tirthankaras glowing as if they had just been finished by their master artists; an impressive Manastambha votive pillar.

The material used at Deogarh is sandstone, often of a warm brick red colour. Built between 850 to 1150 AD (i.e almost 1000 years ago), the temples abound in panels depicting scenes from Jain Mythology, Tirthankara images, votive pillars, votive tablets, Jain images visible from all sides and pillars carved with a thousand Jain figures. The sheer number of images is impressive and quite literally, thousands of sculptures imbedded in the walls surrounding the complex like exhibits in an incredibly rich outdoor gallery. Temple bells rang, the handful of devotees chanted, there was the gently mingled fragrance of incense and flowers in the air. And we walked around, awed by the unbelievable profusion of sculptures. Corridors & walls on every side of the main temples have this amazing perspective with the statues & sculptures on the wall, & pillars which you can see here as well.

The manager of the Jain Trust said: "We have cemented them into the walls to present them from being stolen. And every week we find more sculptures in the ground." We seethed as we had visions of savage marauders destroying sacred idols, throwing them around with vicious glee. But the manager saved us the trouble as he explained: "In ancient times, you see, this was a centre for sculptors. And what they couldn't sell, they just left lying around...."

We looked at the incredible wealth of sculptures and a new realisation began to dawn. The discards of one age often become the treasures of another!

There are quite a few "Deogarh" s in India, but this Deogarh is one less known, even lesser frequented & not represented here at all, till now.

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Additional Photos by Angshuman Chatterjee (Angshu) Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Star Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 6116 W: 252 N: 10443] (33963)
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